Sheung Wan
The frowzy old neighborhood of Sheung Wan continues to thrill visitors and locals alike with its loveable combination of coffin shops, bric-a-brac markets, antiques stores, trendy cafés, and contemporary art spaces. Galleries like Sin Sin Annex, Cat Street, and The Space were among the first to venture west, and that continues with fun venues like the Lomography Gallery Store, a reincarnation of the neighborhood’s original Lomo camera shop. The space, which serves as a meeting point for local as well as traveling Lomographers, is ideally situated in the heart of Sheung Wan, where some of the city’s best moments can be captured.
Other moments will be well spent perusing the storefronts along Tung Street, which has emerged as something of an arts community in its own right. Diane Beatrice Nitte opened her chic Ellerman flower shop here, just a few doors down from bijou ceramics boutique Loveramics and concept store Signed-By, which brings in sexy collections from the likes of Ccchu, Droog, Molo, and Jaime Hayon. More eye-popping yet is Konzepp Space, or at least its angular, egg-yolk-yellow facade. Conceived of as a place where the city’s artists could share ideas and cross-pollinate with like-minded people, the boutique changes its line- up every few months, with merchandise following an artistic theme. Head in after brunch for a cup of Marriage Frères green tea, served with locally harvested honey and Mays cookies, and browse the racks of design magazines and shelves lined with creative lifestyle products—Nasomatto fragrances, Fennec iPad covers, stylish Mute watches.
On the culinary front, the hype in Sheung Wan at the moment is focused on Yardbird, a cool little Japanese eatery that emphasizes quality and simplicity. No reservations are taken, and dishes are only available for as long as the (sometimes rare) ingredients last, but the menu is a nice departure from the over-complicated fare of some of the area’s other restaurants. Start off with the KFC (Korean Fried Cauliflower, lightly battered and sprinkled with sesame seeds) before sampling the kitchen’s sweet-corn tempura and chicken-liver mousse, delivered to the table with batter-fried shallots and toasted brioche. With a great selection of sakes, shochus, Japanese whiskies, and cocktails, Yardbird has also earned a reputation for its drinks—look out for Old Fashions made with a 10-year-old Yamazaki single malt and black sugar, or the Whisky Lemonade with Yuzu sake and soda.
Japanese seems to be the cuisine of the moment in Sheung Wan, with Arashigawa Yakitori also opening on Jervois Street and serving addictive skewers of yakitori at reasonable prices. For a spot of people watching, a light lunch, and maybe a cheeky glass of wine, try Heirloom, which has opened at the western end of Hollywood Road. The two-level venue has been described as “Mexican-Balinese fusion,” but its menu is really just a well-composed selection of palate-pleasing morsels, from fresh zesty salads to one of the few fish tacos in town.
Don’t leave just yet—there’s still Doppio Zero, on Bonham Strand. In a convivial space of muted tones and Art Deco decor, classic Italian dishes like deep-fried oysters with black-truffle aioli, fritto misto laced with mussels and squid, and pillowy beetroot-and-gorgonzola ravioli are matched with an enviable selection of Italian wines. The ambience is as well suited to a table of eight as it is to a couple seeking romance and privacy. Speaking of which, if you’re looking to make an impression, book the room’s end booth, which comes with its own curtain.