Oman: Into the Heart of Arabia

  • Setting up lanterns at the beach camp near Mirbat.

    Setting up lanterns at the beach camp near Mirbat.

  • Baobab trees in the Dhofar mountains.

    Baobab trees in the Dhofar mountains.

  • Hud Hud’s tents come with embroidered bed linen.

    Hud Hud’s tents come with embroidered bed linen.

  • A camel skull.

    A camel skull.

  • Sean Nelson plotting the next day’s journey.

    Sean Nelson plotting the next day’s journey.

  • Skiffs on the beach at Mirbat.

    Skiffs on the beach at Mirbat.

  • A seaside mosque seen from the ruins of an old fortress in Mirbat, some 70 kilometers east of Salalah.

    A seaside mosque seen from the ruins of an old fortress in Mirbat, some 70 kilometers east of Salalah.

  • Beach access in Salalah.

    Beach access in Salalah.

  • Sweet pomegranate is served fresh at camp breakfasts.

    Sweet pomegranate is served fresh at camp breakfasts.

  • A cup of cold fresh water is among the simplest, but most valuable, luxuries in the desert.

    A cup of cold fresh water is among the simplest, but most valuable, luxuries in the desert.

  • Hud Hud camp staff prepping a spot for seaside sundowners.

    Hud Hud camp staff prepping a spot for seaside sundowners.

  • A fisherman competes with a congress of gulls for the sardine harvest.

    A fisherman competes with a congress of gulls for the sardine harvest.

  • Rock pools up the coast from Mirbat.

    Rock pools up the coast from Mirbat.

  • Candle lanterns shed soft light on Hud Hud Travels’ desert camps.

    Candle lanterns shed soft light on Hud Hud Travels’ desert camps.

  • An encounter with a local at the fish market in Salalah, Oman’s second-largest city and the birthplace of Sultan Qaboos bin Said.

    An encounter with a local at the fish market in Salalah, Oman’s second-largest city and the birthplace of Sultan Qaboos bin Said.

  • Caves at a wadi picnic stop in the Dhofar Mountains.

    Caves at a wadi picnic stop in the Dhofar Mountains.

  • A camp staffer.

    A camp staffer.

  • A Dhofari boy.

    A Dhofari boy.

  • The scenic route.

    The scenic route.

  • One of Hud Hud Travels’ younger guests having fun in the sun amid a dune field deep inside the Empty Quarter.

    One of Hud Hud Travels’ younger guests having fun in the sun amid a dune field deep inside the Empty Quarter.

  • A majlis (meeting tent) at Hud Hud travels’ Empty Quarter camp.

    A majlis (meeting tent) at Hud Hud travels’ Empty Quarter camp.

  • Wind-sculpted sand dunes amid the trackless expanse of southern Oman’s Rub’ al Khali, or Empty Quarter.

    Wind-sculpted sand dunes amid the trackless expanse of southern Oman’s Rub’ al Khali, or Empty Quarter.

  • Camels remain a common sight in fast-modernizing Oman.

    Camels remain a common sight in fast-modernizing Oman.

  • A lone thorn tree provides a rare sign of life in the desert.

    A lone thorn tree provides a rare sign of life in the desert.

  • A Salalah merchant.

    A Salalah merchant.

  • A fisherman’s haul.

    A fisherman’s haul.

  • Low tide on the Arabian sea coast near Mirbat.

    Low tide on the Arabian sea coast near Mirbat.

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Between the styling of the camp and the emptiness of the place itself, it’s easy to like this throwback to Thesiger’s time. And when one is done talking, reading, and drinking tea to the buzzing of flies, the desert offers up something new again. It’s a silence you can hear, especially among the dunes. Danny appears to connect with it, too. Under the cover of night, he wants to know the name of every star—out here, they’ve never seemed more bright, more alive. We’re a million miles from the PlayStation culture of his home, and for the moment that seems like the perfect vacation.

On our last day in the desert, one of the guides suggests a visit to an oasis. Envisioning a picnic beneath a stand of date palms, I’m keen, even though I’m warned it will involve a three-hour journey in the 4×4, slipping and sliding up and down the dunes. Danny agrees to come along.

The desert scenery proves tedious for him; once you become accustomed to the dunes, they all look pretty much the same. The only surprise along the way is the bleached bones of a camel splayed on the sand. When we stop to examine it, Danny takes the coccyx with him back into the car, and does his best to endure the next two hours of the drive graciously.

Finally we arrive at the oasis, which is marked by a small pool of sulfur-smelling water in the sand. Around the edges of this puddle—and a puddle is all it is—stand but a few blades of green. It’s hardly the lush, romantic vision of my imagination. Danny sidles up to me for a closer look.

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