A notable new restaurant in Bali plates up Italian, Greek, and Spanish fare with a subtle local twist.
Accomplished Aussie chef Kieran Morland — a co-founder of mod-Indonesian restaurants Sangsaka and Merah Putih in Seminyak — has put his stamp on Canggu’s burgeoning food scene with the recent debut of Luma. Serving Mediterranean-inspired cuisine with a strong focus on seasonal and local produce, the new dinners-only venue is a joint venture with friend and Kiwi chef Cameron Emirali, who helms 10 Greek Street in London’s Soho neighborhood. The duo previously worked together in kitchens back in the British capital, and share a preference for simple, straightforward cooking characterized by minimal intervention on the part of the ingredients.
The natural bounty of Bali and the surrounding islands informs the weekly-changing menu and a series of daily specials. Expect to find seaweed-wrapped prawns, romesco, and kenari nuts; malfatti (spinach and ricotta dumplings) with mushrooms and fern tips; and Batik lobster risotto, zucchini flowers, and chili butter. The kitchen’s bespoke wood-fired oven and charcoal grill turn out specialties like wagyu flat iron steak with mustard, bone marrow, and cassava, as well as the classic grilled octopus, orzo, and squid-ink aioli.
Luma’s curated list of vino includes Remelliri Rioja from northern Spain and a Sicilian Donna Fugata chardonnay, alongside a small selection of natural wines, most of which are served by the glass, carafe, and bottle. Also available are a few rarer gems such as a 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Tuscan estate of Bolgheri Sassicaia. Cocktail aficionados, meanwhile, can look forward to creative tipples like locally distilled Spice Islands gin muddled with local raspberries and torch ginger, and an old fashioned that uses spiced honey from Flores and orange bitters.
Open daily from 5–11 p.m., Luma occupies a former villa overhauled by local studio Design Assembly, which looked to Italy’s rugged coastline and the arched doorways and windows of southern Spain to create the white interiors and marble mosaic floor. The restaurant’s 140 seats are spread across a formal dining area, a private dining area for up to 20 people, and a bar and sunken lounge where patrons can enjoy aperitivos, meals, and postprandial drinks accompanied by live music and DJ sets.