Bali’s Canggu Neighborhood Guide

  • The Betelnut Burger.

    The Betelnut Burger.

  • The Big Betelnut signature salad.

    The Big Betelnut signature salad.

  • The open-air terrace of Betelnut.

    The open-air terrace of Betelnut.

  • Roti Canai's eclectic café.

    Roti Canai's eclectic café.

  • Enjoy a beer in paradise at this Canggu institution.

    Enjoy a beer in paradise at this Canggu institution.

  • Catch views of seasoned surfers from the oceanfront bar.

    Catch views of seasoned surfers from the oceanfront bar.

  • Flow & Yonder faces out onto rice paddy fields.

    Flow & Yonder faces out onto rice paddy fields.

  • The chilled-out courtyard at Deus Ex Machina.

    The chilled-out courtyard at Deus Ex Machina.

  • Boards and bikes at Deus Ex Machina.

    Boards and bikes at Deus Ex Machina.

  • The Deus 'temple of enthusiasm.'

    The Deus 'temple of enthusiasm.'

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By Rachel Will
Video By Dimas Anggakara

Just North of Bali’s bustling Seminyak lies the sleepy surfer’s enclave of Canggu. Long renowned for its accessible but serene surf spots, Canggu was once just hectares of rice paddy fields. Now, dotted with the odd café or boutique, the neighborhood still maintains its laid-back atmosphere, with its main traffic kept to the shore’s waves. As a small community, the area has a familial vibe—some shop owners boast ties of more than 20 years to the community while others recently relocated here with their families, seeking a bit of respite from Kuta’s increasingly hectic pace of life. While the buzz of Jalan Legian may be a ways off, make sure to experience Canggu on your next trip to Bali—health food, custom surfboards, and open-air dining venues await.

Old Man’s

Enjoy a beer in paradise at this Canggu institution.

Enjoy a beer in paradise at this Canggu institution.

Named after the old Balinese men who would bury themselves neck-high in the sand in front of this legendary surf spot, Old Man’s quietly opened last year as a post-wave hangout. Founded by Bali-based restaurateur Sean Cosgrove, the open-air restaurant is a space based on discovery—instead of a flashy storefront and promotional events, Old Man’s positions itself as a hidden grown-up’s playground with ping pong tables, psychedelic street art, and racks upon racks of surfboard parking. The menu brims with beach-goer favorites from fish and chips to veggie-blended drinks, fresh coconuts, and a multitude of gelato flavors. On weekends, catch live music from Blues to country western that has drawn crowds of up to 400. With a view of seasoned surfers and the company of other sun-worshippers, Old Man’s is the perfect place to grab a beer in paradise.

Catch views of seasoned surfers from the oceanfront bar.

Catch views of seasoned surfers from the oceanfront bar.

Jalan Batu Bolong, Canggu; 62-361/8469158; Old Man’s

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