New York City: Chelsea at the Crossroads

  • Strolling on the High Line.

    Strolling on the High Line.

  • A mellow morning at 9th Avenue patisserie La Bergamote.

    A mellow morning at 9th Avenue patisserie La Bergamote.

  • The shops and restaurants of Chelsea Market occupy a historic biscuit factory.

    The shops and restaurants of Chelsea Market occupy a historic biscuit factory.

  • a West Chelsea street corner.

    a West Chelsea street corner.

  • Meadow grasses on the High Line.

    Meadow grasses on the High Line.

  • The Frank Gehry–designed IAC building, with Jean Nouvel’s equally arresting condo tower behind it.

    The Frank Gehry–designed IAC building, with Jean Nouvel’s equally arresting condo tower behind it.

  • Hôtel Americano’s café.

    Hôtel Americano’s café.

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Chelsea’s changing skyline is also visible from the High Line. Train your eyes toward 11th Avenue around18th and 19th streets and you’ll spot a pair of landmarks by two of the world’s most influential architects: Frank Gehry’s softly curving IAC building, better known as the Iceberg; and Jean Nouvel’s 23-story residential tower, with its wraparound facade of mismatched window frames. Close to the park’s 23rd Street stairwell is Neil Denari’s glass-and-steel HL23 condominiums.

To my mind, though, it’s worth coming down to street level for the Metal Shutter Houses by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, an exercise in elegant restraint.

The new Hôtel Americano confirms West Chelsea’s arrival. The first foray north of the border by Mexico’s innovative Grupo Habita, the hotel combines the talents of architect Enrique Norten and French interior designer Arnaud Montigny, best known for his work on Collette in Paris. The result is a cross between a ryokan and a swanky Mid-century airport lounge.

The 56 rooms are tiny, but frankly, they’re not what the hotel is about. (For comfort and space, you’re better off at the Eventi on 6th Avenue.) The Hôtel Americano offers a fully curated experience for those aspiring to be the kind of globetrotter who is conversant on obscure Afro-beat musicians, emerging Scandinavian chefs, and small-batch Japanese sakes. The coffee is from Intelligentsia, a Chicago outfit that uses vintage German roasters, while the extra-soft selvedge-striped face towels are by Yoshii from Imbari, Japan. Retro-looking Bowery Lane bicycles are at the disposal of guests. Among the minibar offerings are North Fork potato chips and Woodford Reserve bourbon; Alessi alarm clocks and West Third candles are also for sale. It would be tempting to poke fun at the steady diet of cult, artisanal brands if I didn’t want to snatch the Loden Dager–designed blazer off the bellboy’s back for my husband.

Hôtel Americano is not the next Hotel Chelsea, the legendary nexus of art, rock ’n’ roll, and general bad behavior that shuttered this past summer. It’s far too sophisticated and grown-up for that. Though the Americano has only been open since September, its slim bar and restaurant are packed nightly with curators, gallerists, and other denizens of the art world.

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