For an Ayurvedic Tune-Up: Kalari Kovilakom, Kerala
Kerala-based hotel group CGH Earth set a new precedent for Ayurvedic retreats when it opened Kalari Kovilakom in a 19th-century palace flanking the Annamalai Hills in 2005. Concerned that Ayurveda, India’s ancient system of medicine, was becoming diluted through its popularity in the spa in-dustry, the company wanted to take the holistic science back to its roots. By restoring the farming village of Kollengode’s magnificent wooden palace and attached Art Deco wing, and then adding the trimmings of a luxury resort—diligent staff, comfy beds, power showers—CGH Earth hoped to stay true to the principles of Ayurveda while attracting a well-heeled international clientele. Checking in here is a serious undertaking: there is a minimum stay of two weeks, during which guests are required to follow a strict diet, massage, and exercise program individually tailored by an on-site doctor. Meat, alcohol, oil, salt, sugar, cigarettes, leather, pharmaceuticals, and commercial soaps and shampoos are banned, and herbal enemas and drinking medicated ghee are a likely part of the prescription. Rest assured you are not alone: many of the employees undertake Ayurvedic programs before working here, so they can relate to guests’ needs, and all must also follow strict Ayurvedic diets. The upside? You’ll come out feeling reborn (91-4923/263-737; kalarikovilakom.com; 14-day all-inclusive Ayur-vedic programs from US$11,400, double).
For Desert Drama: The Serai, Jaisalmer
Silence is more than golden amid India’s riotous cacophony, but 30 kilometers outside the Rajasthani city of Jaisalmer, this 21-tent oasis rises singularly among a jaw-dropping expanse of sand dunes in the Thar Desert. Climb on a camel’s back to ride into flame-red sunsets, then gather around the crackling campfire while vibrantly attired Marwari musicians play traditional instruments and whirl like dervishes until daybreak. The canvas-clad accommodations, each set at a generous distance from its neighbor, come with plush beds, powerful air conditioners, and spacious sitting rooms; the opulent Royal Suite adds a private spa, a swimming pool, and separate dining and lounge tents. Urban cowboys may require a day to adjust to desert life without Wi-Fi and a gym, but once they do, there are plenty of diversions at hand, from guided field expeditions in search of desert foxes, gazelle, and the rare great Indian bustard, to private sunrise yoga sessions and dinners under the stars. The seamless service is attentive but unobtrusive, making it all the easier to listen to the sound of silence. Nearby sights include intricately carved Jain temples and a fossil park, though guests will be excused for skipping those in favor of time spent savoring the encampment’s bespoke tea blends and staring off into the sandy horizon—a quickly addictive pursuit (91-11/4606-7608; the-serai.com; doubles from US$522).