Old-school Favorites
Not surprisingly, some of the most faithful Thai dishes in Bangkok come courtesy of the old-fashioned restaurants in the inner city, all of which have been around for decades. One such gem is Methavalai Sorndaeng, a favorite of Thai grandfathers everywhere. Here, 1950s decor and sedate Thai music performances (evenings only) combine with hard-to-find central Thailand treats such as kratong tong (tartlets filled with minced meat) and khao tang (coin-shaped rice crackers topped with minced pork and prawns) to create a sort of time warp that dispels the clamor of Ratchadamnoen Avenue outside.
Diners in search of a more casual vibe need look no further than the original, much-lauded branch of Krua Apsorn. Plaudits certainly don’t extend to the decor—think school cafeteria—or the Samsen Road location, which can be frustratingly difficult to get to. Instead, the draw here is the well-made, well-executed food: hoy mangpu pad cha (mussels stir-fried with basil and chilies), gaeng som (southern Thai-style curry with lotus stems and prawns), and deep-fried chicken wings. Another oldie but goodie is Sanguan Sri, set on Wireless Road in a gray, nondescript building that has all the charm of a bomb shelter. Open only for lunch, the restaurant is routinely packed by Thais looking for old-style curries, often accompanied by plates piled high with kanom jeen (Mon-style fermented rice noodles).
The largely residential Sukhumvit area, known for its sushi bars and Thai-fusion vanity projects, is not without its own tried-and-tested eateries. A case in point: Ruea Thong, a two-story shophouse restaurant on Thonglor that throngs with local hipsters. Snail curry and a salad of catfish eggs with shredded green mango are just some of the menu’s highlights. Or there’s Ruen Mallika, which occupies a traditional teak house crammed with low wooden tables and triangular pillows. The cuisine here is royal Thai—similar to conventional Thai food, but with more emphasis on presentation. Standout dishes include tod mun goong (deep-fried shrimp cakes) and nam prik kai pu (crab-roe chili dip).
While southern Thai food is well represented in the capital, one of the best places to have it is Khua Kling Pak Sod. The iconic dish from which the restaurant takes its name—khua kling, or minced beef or pork seasoned with chilies and kaffir lime leaves—is a specialty of the kitchen, as is an eye-watering gaeng luang (yellow curry) and stir-fried sator (“stink beans”) with shrimp paste and prawns. Thankfully, there is also a wide variety of kai jiew (deep-fried omelets) with which to combat the spice.
