China Travel: Tianjin’s Time

  • Looking east along Nanjing Road from a tower in Tianjin’s Heping District.

    Looking east along Nanjing Road from a tower in Tianjin’s Heping District.

  • A concourse inside Tianjin’s state-of-the-art train station.

    A concourse inside Tianjin’s state-of-the-art train station.

  • A waiter at Brasserie Flo, in the Italian Concession area.

    A waiter at Brasserie Flo, in the Italian Concession area.

  • The courtyard at Hotel Indigo, in the former German Concession.

    The courtyard at Hotel Indigo, in the former German Concession.

  • A cinema-themed room at Hotel Indigo takes its inspiration from Tianjin’s original movie theater, which screened it first film—Der Blauer Engel, starring Marlene Dietrich—in the early 1930s.

    A cinema-themed room at Hotel Indigo takes its inspiration from Tianjin’s original movie theater, which screened it first film—Der Blauer Engel, starring Marlene Dietrich—in the early 1930s.

  • English-style town houses at Qing Wang Fu.

    English-style town houses at Qing Wang Fu.

  • The garden-facing café terrace at Qing Wang Fu.

    The garden-facing café terrace at Qing Wang Fu.

  • Min Yuan Terrace’s Cave d’Emma wine club.

    Min Yuan Terrace’s Cave d’Emma wine club.

  • Snap-happy tourists on Tianjin’s Ancient Cultural Street, an avenue lined with reproductions of Qing-era architecture.

    Snap-happy tourists on Tianjin’s Ancient Cultural Street, an avenue lined with reproductions of Qing-era architecture.

  • Writing on the wall at Min Yuan Terrace.

    Writing on the wall at Min Yuan Terrace.

  • A hallway at the historic Astor Hotel.

    A hallway at the historic Astor Hotel.

  • One of the hotel’s period-style suites.

    One of the hotel’s period-style suites.

  • The Tianjin Concert Hall, a rebuilt Neoclassical landmark.

    The Tianjin Concert Hall, a rebuilt Neoclassical landmark.

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If the city’s current leadership has its way, Tianjin will soon be rid of its image problem. It already boasts plenty of economic muscle.

The birthplace of two of China’s stalwart, old-time manufacturers— Seagull cameras and Flying Pigeon bicycles—Tianjin has long been a major industrial center, attracting multinationals such as Motorola, Samsung, Volkswagon, and Toyota. As with most fast-growing Chinese cities, cranes and sprouting skyscrapers dot the skyline, especially around the train station, which was revamped and expanded ahead of the 2008 Beijing Olympics (Tianjin hosted some of the football matches). And since 2007, global movers and shakers have convened here for the World Economic Forum’s “Summer Davos,” one of Asia’s highest-profile business and political gatherings.

For the past decade or so, Tianjin has been undergoing a major makeover. Aware that its history is a unique selling point, in 2005 officials launched a 20-year campaign to spruce up the city’s heritage properties. More than 600 buildings were deemed worthy of protection, while areas such as the former Italian Concession were slated for wholesale facelifts. Even newly constructed buildings have been given turrets, arches, domes, and other concession-era flourishes.

As a result, international hotel chains have come knocking and are starting to build handsome properties with an eye on tourism. This past September, Hotel Indigo (InterContinental Hotels Group’s hip boutique brand) opened a 96-room property modeled after the German consulate that once stood on the site. Next year will see the opening of hotels run by Banyan Tree and Ritz-Carlton, while Shangri-La and Conrad will be joining the roster in the near future.

All this is impressive—but will it be enough to convince visitors to linger? Because there’s a lot of convincing that needs to be done. When I happened to mention to a Chinese acquaintance that I was planning a weekend in Tianjin, she curled her lip and asked, “But why?”

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